November 25, 2024

Night Vision for Preparedness

“Everyone who does evil hates the light, and will not come into the light for fear that their deeds will be exposed.” John 3:20

Let’s face it, Joe Dirtbag and his buddies do most of their evil deeds in the dark. If some of the things we’re preparing for start happening, like blackouts, civil unrest or even TEOTWAWKI Joe Dirtbag is going to have a lot more buddies. One thing we can use as a force multiplier is night vision, it can give us the ability to see the Dirtbag gang and the evil deeds they wish to inflict. For those that don’t know what a force multiplier is, one definition is:

“A capability that, when added to and employed by a combat force, significantly increases the combat potential of that force and thus enhances the probability of successful mission accomplishment.”

I don’t own any night vision equipment, but it is on my wish list. I also only have a novices’ understanding of night vision gear. If I don’t use the technical terms in this article it is because they don’t mean anything to me. I’ll put things in terms that are more understandable for novices.
 
 

Methods of Night Vision


 
There are three methods of night vision; passive, active and thermal.
 
 
Passive

Passive night vision takes in the ambient light in the user’s general area, this light is then magnified several times. The color green is used to display the images.
 
 
Active

Instead of relying on natural light, an infrared light source is emitted and the reflection of that light is used to create an image. Active night vision can give a higher resolution than passive. Because the infrared light can give away the position of the wearer, the US military does not use them.
 
 
Thermal Imaging Night Vision

Thermal imaging does not use light, it relies on thermal radiation. Every object emits thermal radiation based on its temperature. The hotter an object the more thermal radiation it emits.
 

Night Vision Devices


 There are basically four types of night vision, each with pluses and minuses. They are: monocular, goggle, binocular and scopes. I say “basically” because there are some hybrids available, but for a primer on the subject for us novices, let’s stick to the basics.
 
Night Vision Monoculars

This unit offers night vision to a single eye without magnification. These units are often small and some of the newer generations can be mounted to a rifle scope or spotting scope. They can be head mounted as well. One benefit is that, since one eye is not looking through the lens, you have more situational awareness. Another plus is that you can switch back and forth between eyes when one grows tired.
 
Night Vision Goggles

Night Vision goggles are often head mounted. They provide viewing for both eyes with no magnification. This is done either by both eyes sharing one image tube or by each eye having its own image tube. The goggles with two image tubes provide each eye its own image instead of them sharing the same image from one tube. This allows for better depth perception. Some models come with a head piece of sorts, while others require a helmet to attach to. The down side can be the added weight of goggles themselves and the helmet if one is needed.
 
Night Vision Binoculars

These are essentially just what it sounds like; binoculars with night vision. Due to weight they are not head mounted. They are primarily designed for long distance nighttime viewing while standing stationary. The generations will be covered in more detail below, but gen 1 optics don’t illuminate at great distances. Because of this, adding magnification to a gen 1 device will cause the image to be dimmer. A gen 3-4 device offers plenty of illumination.
 
Night Vision Scopes

There are two types of night vision scopes. The first is larger and heavier than a normal scope and attaches to a rifle in the same manner as a regular scope. The second either attaches to or in front of a regular scope, sort of like the monocular. I don’t mind the monocular version, but the scope that offers night vision makes me uncomfortable. If you cannot detach it and must point your rifle to view things you’re breaking one of the safety rules; “Do not point at anything you are not willing to destroy”.
 
 

Generations

Instead of getting into the technical aspects of the difference between the generations of night vision, I will mention what they mean to the consumer.

Gen 1

This is the oldest and, by far, the most affordable. Depending on the night, they have a range of 75 yards. The resolution is poorer than and not as bright as newer generations. They only operate in active mode and, therefore, make you easy to see by others with night vision. Bright light can cause distortion called “blooming” easier than newer generations. Shorter life expectancy, only roughly 1500 hours.

Gen 2

Gen 1 has been around since the 1960’s, so generation 2 is a big step up. Viewable distance is out to roughly 200 yards with higher resolution. Passive mode can be used, and gen 2 is less susceptible to blooming. Life expectancy is roughly three times as long as gen 1. There are several types of Gen 2, some much better than others.

Gen 3

Gen 3 is considered the gold standard of night vision and is what the military is currently using. Gen 3 offers the best resolution and is usable out to 300 yards, depending on the model and night conditions. Gen three also operates in passive mode. Life expectancy is 10,000+ hours.

Gen 4

Gen 4 is equivalent or better than most gen 3. However, I have read that gen 4 is more prone to failures due to the technology it uses.

For those of you who want the more technical terms, you can find that information here. There are also visual examples of the differences between all four generations.

Below is a very ballpark estimate on prices for the various generations of night vision.

gen 1 $200-$1,000
gen 2 $1,500- $3,500
gen 3 $3,000- $10,000
gen 4 $5,000-$10,000+
 
 

Final Thoughts

As you can see, there is a lot of data to take into consideration. Once you’ve figured out your desired generation, whether you want monocular, goggle, binocular or scope, you then get to look at all of the differences between models.

I really think night vision is a prep everyone should have on their list. For many of us it may always stay there. I think, if you can afford it, you should buy as much as your budget will allow. While I would personally love a gen 3 monocular, I’ll work toward a gen 1 and still have a leg up on the vast majority of the dirtbag gang.

One final note; the owner of Ready Made Resources let me know they are having a sale through July on the PVS-14 3RD GEN with a free weapon mount and shutter eye relief.
They are gen 3, so they are expensive, but I did a bit of searching and this price is hundreds cheaper than other stores. If you can afford it and are in the market, this is a good price!
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Developing a Tire Blowout Kit

change a flat

Do you know how to take care of a flat tire? Do you have what you need to do so in your vehicle?

Knowing how to change a tire is a skill every driver should have. While true, you might be able to call someone for help, that might not always be the case. I have had more than my share of flats, so I thought I would share my experience with you.

There are some items that I think each car should have. I call this a “tire blow out kit”. These items are: 4 Way Lug Wrench, a can of Fix-A-Flat, a usable spare, a pair of leather work gloves and a jack.

Some lug nuts have a special tool and you can only remove them with that specific tool. I have seen some lug wrenches that are all but worthless against any lug nut that has been on a vehicle for any length of time. This is why I like the 4 Way Lug Wrench. It fits many types of lug nuts and you can apply pressure from multiple points.

Some people don’t like to use Fix-A-Flat. It’s true that it will not fix all flats. However, it has fixed a couple of flats for me and people I know. I recommend having a can in each vehicle and knowing when it is appropriate to use. If you’re going to replace the tire and have a working spare, it might be better to use the spare and skip the Fix-a-Flat, as it can make it a bit more difficult to remove the tire.

Check your spare tire now and again, to make sure it’s full. If your vehicle can hold a full size spare, I recommend it. The “doughnut”, AKA the “55 MPH” spare, should only be used to get home or to a garage to have the tire fixed or a new tire put on.

I had one bad blow out on a freeway once going 65 mph. By the time I could pull over, the wire belts were sticking out. This was when I was young and my idea of vehicle preparedness was making sure the oil was changed and there was gas in the tank; so taking the tire off was a pain, literally. Living in Minnesota, I often keep a pair of winter gloves and a pair of leather gloves, having “the right tool for the job” and all that.

There are many types of jacks, and where you place them varies by vehicle. Many vehicles will say where to place the jack in the owner’s manual. As a general rule, you place the jack on the frame of the car.

Here is a video that shows the process of jacking the car up, changing a flat, lowering the car and tightening the lug nuts.

One thing I want to add is that I have had a couple lug nuts that were all but welded on and I could not get them to loosen. In this situation, I use something I call a “breaker bar”. It’s simply a pipe of some kind that I use as a lever, which is placed over the lug nut wrench to give the leverage to break the nut loose.

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8 Major Differences Between Freeze-dried and Dehydrated Food

Chris Say’s: While freeze-dried food does have many pluses over dehydrated food, I don’t agree with everything in the article. One of the major pluses of dehydrated food is that you can do it yourself at home and at a fraction of the cost of freeze-dried food. I think both have their places in food storage and it is important to know the pluses and minuses of each.

8 Major Differences Between Freeze-dried and Dehydrated Food

1. Processes. First of all, the process by which each is made is different. Freeze-dried food is flash frozen and then put in a vacuum container causing the water vaporize, and leaving the food item with 98% of its water removed. Dehydrated products are heated and water evaporates, leaving the food item with 75% of its water removed. These differences in process mean that they both have different functions in your food storage.

2. Shelf-Life. Freeze-dried food lasts a lot longer without expiring because it has hardly any water left in it. On average, they tend to last between 20 and 30 years. Dehydrated foods still have 25% of its original water left in it, so they cannot stay good for nearly as long. They typically last between 1 and 8 years.

3. Additives. Freeze-dried foods don’t have any additives, but dehydrated food does. They usually need to add salt, sugar, or other preservatives to make dehydrated food.

4. Nutrition. Food retains all the nutrients that it had in its original form after the freeze-drying process. In the dehydration process, however, up to 50% of the foods’ nutrients can be lost because of the heat that the food is put under in the process.

5. Taste & Texture. Freeze dried food has a muted coloring and a dry, powdery texture before it is prepared, but once water is added the food has its’ original look, texture, and taste. Dehydrated food looks and tastes different than it was before the process. It also usually has a chewy texture.

6. Re-Hydrating. Since freeze-dried food was made to be re-hydrated, it is very easy to do. It can be done with cold or hot water, and after the water is added the food is just like the regular food item was frozen and then thawed. Dehydrated food wasn’t made for re-hydration, so it is extremely difficult. An example of doing this would be trying to turn a raisin back into a grape. If you do want to attempt this, it must be done with hot water.

7. Uses. Freeze-dried food is great to use as a substitute for fresh ingredients when cooking. It also comes in pre-made packaged meals like lasagna or orange chicken. There are limitless possibilities with freeze-dried; they even make freeze-dried icecream! Dehydrated food is a little more limited. It’s great as a snack by itself, but it doesn’t really go with recipes very well. The products that are dehydrated are mostly fruits, vegetables, and meats.

8. Cost. Because of the many benefits, freeze-dried food costs more than dehydrated food.

Both freeze-dried and dehydrated foods have their ups and downs, and they are both very good options for your home food storage. Click here to learn more about freeze dried food from Food Insurance.

Author Bio- Chett Wright is an emergency preparedness expert, and loves educating others on the how-to’s of food storage.

Life During a Collapse

I tend to give a lot of credence to someone who is speaking through life experience. I have seen this article in the past, on several blogs and forums, and it shaped some of how I prepare. If I knew who the original author was I would give them credit and just link to their article. As I don’t, I am just going to post it here. UPDATE: Someone sent me the original authors site, you can find it here at SHTFSchool

There is a second piece that I want to link to, it is speculation on how a collapse may look in America. It has enough merit that I thought it worth sharing, it is long but worth the read. The name of the article is When The Music Stops – How America’s Cities May Explode In Violence
 
 

Life During a Collapse

 
I am from Bosnia. You know, between 1992 and 1995, it was hell. For one year, I lived and survived in a city with 6,000 people without water, electricity, gasoline, medical help, civil defense, distribution service, any kind of traditional service or centralized rule.

Our city was blockaded by the army; and for one year, life in the city turned into total crap. We had no army, no police. We only had armed groups; those armed protected their homes and families.

When it all started, some of us were better prepared. But most of the neighbors’ families had enough food only for a few days. Some had pistols; a few had AK-47s or shotguns.

After a month or two, gangs started operating, destroying everything. Hospitals, for example, turned into slaughterhouses. There was no more police. About 80 percent of the hospital staff were gone. I got lucky. My family at the time was fairly large (15 people in a large house, six pistols, three AKs), and we survived (most of us, at least).

The Americans dropped MREs every 10 days to help blockaded cities. This was never enough. Some — very few — had gardens. It took three months for the first rumors to spread of men dying from hunger and cold. We removed all the doors, the window frames from abandoned houses, ripped up the floors and burned the furniture for heat. Many died from diseases, especially from the water (two from my own family). We drank mostly rainwater, ate pigeons and even rats.

Money soon became worthless. We returned to an exchange. For a tin can of tushonka (think Soviet spam), you could have a woman. (It is hard to speak of it, but it is true.) Most of the women who sold themselves were desperate mothers.

Arms, ammunition, candles, lighters, antibiotics, gasoline, batteries and food. We fought for these things like animals. In these situations, it all changes. Men become monsters. It was disgusting.

Strength was in numbers. A man living alone getting killed and robbed would be just a matter of time, even if he was armed.

Today, me and my family are well-prepared, I am well-armed. I have experience.
It does not matter what will happen: an earthquake, a war, a tsunami, aliens, terrorists, economic collapse, uprising. The important part is that something will happen.

Here’s my experience: You can’t make it on your own. Don’t stay apart from your family; prepare together, choose reliable friends.
 
 
How to move safely in a city

The city was divided into communities along streets. Our street (15 to 20 homes) had patrols (five armed men every week) to watch for gangs and for our enemies.

All the exchanges occurred in the street. About 5 kilometers away was an entire street for trading, all well-organized; but going there was too dangerous because of the snipers. You could also get robbed by bandits. I only went there twice, when I needed something really rare (list of medicine, mainly antibiotics, of the French original of the texts).

Nobody used automobiles in the city: The streets were blocked by wreckage and by abandoned cars. Gasoline was very expensive. If one needed to go somewhere, that was done at night. Never travel alone or in groups that were too big — always two to three men. All armed, travel swift, in the shadows, cross streets through ruins, not along open streets.

There were many gangs 10 to 15 men strong, some as large as 50 men. But there were also many normal men, like you and me, fathers and grandfathers, who killed and robbed. There were no “good” and “bad” men. Most were in the middle and ready for the worst.
 
 
What about wood? Your home city is surrounded by woods; why did you burn doors and furniture?

There were not that many woods around the city. It was very beautiful — restaurants, cinemas, schools, even an airport. Every tree in the city and in the city park was cut down for fuel in the first two months.

Without electricity for cooking and heat, we burned anything that burned. Furniture, doors, flooring: That wood burns swiftly. We had no suburbs or suburban farms. The enemy was in the suburbs. We were surrounded. Even in the city you never knew who was the enemy at any given point.
 
 
What knowledge was useful to you in that period?

To imagine the situation a bit better, you should know it was practically a return to the Stone Age.

For example, I had a container of cooking gas. But I did not use it for heat. That would be too expensive! I attached a nozzle to it I made myself and used to fill lighters. Lighters were precious. If a man brought an empty lighter, I would fill it; and he would give me a tin of food or a candle.

I was a paramedic. In these conditions, my knowledge was my wealth. Be curious and skilled. In these conditions, the ability to fix things is more valuable than gold.

Items and supplies will inevitably run out, but your skills will keep you fed. I wish to say this: Learn to fix things, shoes or people. My neighbor, for example, knew how to make kerosene for lamps. He never went hungry.
 
 
If you had three months to prepare now, what would you do?

Three months? Run away from the country? (joking)

Today, I know everything can collapse really fast. I have a stockpile of food, hygiene items, batteries — enough to last me for six months.

I live in a very secure flat and own a home with a shelter in a village 5 kilometers away. Another six-month supply there, too. That’s a small village; most people there are well-prepared. The war had taught them.

I have four weapons and 2,000 rounds for each.

I have a garden and have learned gardening. Also, I have a good instinct. You know, when everyone around you keeps telling you it’ll all be fine, but I know it will all collapse.

I have strength to do what I need to protect my family. Because when it all collapses, you must be ready to do “bad” things to keep your children alive and protect your family.

Surviving on your own is practically impossible. (That’s what I think.) Even you’re armed and ready, if you’re alone, you’ll die. I have seen that happen many times.

Families and groups, well-prepared, with skills and knowledge in various fields: That’s much better.
 
 
What should you stockpile?

That depends. If you plan to live by theft, all you need is weapons and ammo. Lots of ammo.

If not, more food, hygiene items, batteries, accumulators, little trading items (knives, lighters, flints, soap). Also, alcohol of a type that keeps well. The cheapest whiskey is a good trading item.

Many people died from insufficient hygiene. You’ll need simple items in great amounts. For example, garbage bags. Lots of them. And toilet papers. Non-reusable dishes and cups: You’ll need lots of them. I know that because we didn’t have any at all.

As for me, a supply of hygiene items is perhaps more important than food. You can shoot a pigeon. You can find a plant to eat. You can’t find or shoot any disinfectant.

Disinfectant, detergents, bleach, soap, gloves, masks.

First aid skills, washing wounds and burns. Perhaps you will find a doctor and will not be able to pay him. Learn to use antibiotics. It’s good to have a stockpile of them.

You should choose the simplest weapons. I carry a Glock .45. I like it, but it’s a rare gun here. So I have two TT pistols, too. (Everyone has them and ammo is common.)

I don’t like Kalashnikov’s, but again, same story. Everyone has them; so do I.

You must own small, unnoticeable items. For example, a generator is good, but 1,000 BIC lighters are better. A generator will attract attention if there’s any trouble, but 1,000 lighters are compact, cheap and can always be traded.

We usually collected rainwater into four large barrels and then boiled it. There was a small river, but the water in it became very dirty very fast.

It’s also important to have containers for water: barrels and buckets.
 
 
Was salt expensive?

Yes, but coffee and cigarettes were even more expensive. I had lots of alcohol and traded it without problems. Alcohol consumption grew over 10 times as compared to peacetime. Perhaps today, it’s more useful to keep a stock of cigarettes, lighters and batteries. They take up less space.

At this time, I was not a survivalist. We had no time to prepare — several days before the shit hit the fan. The politicians kept repeating over the TV that everything was going according to plan, there’s no reason to be concerned. When the sky fell on our heads, we took what we could.
 
 
Were gold and silver useful?
Yes. I personally traded all the gold in the house for ammunition.

Sometimes, we got our hands on money: dollars and Deutschmarks. We bought some things for them, but this was rare and prices were astronomical. For example, a can of beans cost $30 to $40. The local money quickly became worthless. Everything we needed we traded for through barter.
 
 
Was it difficult to purchase firearms? What did you trade for arms and ammunition?

After the war, we had guns in every house. The police confiscated lots of guns at the beginning of the war. But most of them we hid. Now I have one legal gun that I have a license for. Under the law, that’s called a temporary collection. If there is unrest, the government will seize all the registered guns. Never forget that.

You know, there are many people who have one legal gun, but also illegal guns if that one gets seized. If you have good trade goods, you might be able to get a gun in a tough situation. But remember, the most difficult time is the first days, and perhaps you won’t have enough time to find a weapon to protect your family. To be disarmed in a time of chaos and panic is a bad idea.

In my case, there was a man who needed a car battery for his radio. He had shotguns. I traded the accumulator for both of them. Sometimes, I traded ammunition for food, and a few weeks later traded food for ammunition. Never did the trade at home, never in great amounts.

Few people knew how much and what I keep at home.

The most important thing is to keep as many things as possible in terms of space and money. Eventually, you’ll understand what is more valuable.

Correction: I’ll always value weapons and ammunition the most. Second? Maybe gas masks and filters.
 
 
What about security?

Our defenses were very primitive. Again, we weren’t ready, and we used what we could. The windows were shattered, and the roofs in a horrible state after the bombings. The windows were blocked — some with sandbags, others with rocks.

I blocked the fence gate with wreckage and garbage, and used a ladder to get across the wall. When I came home, I asked someone inside to pass over the ladder. We had a fellow on our street that completely barricaded himself in his house. He broke a hole in the wall, creating a passage for himself into the ruins of the neighbor’s house — a sort of secret entrance.

Maybe this would seem strange, but the most protected houses were looted and destroyed first. In my area of the city, there were beautiful houses with walls, dogs, alarms and barred windows. People attacked them first. Some held out; others didn’t. It all depended how many hands and guns they had inside.

I think defense is very important, but it must be carried out unobtrusively. If you are in a city and SHTF comes, you need a simple, non-flashy place, with lots of guns and ammo.

How much ammo? As much as possible.

Make your house as unattractive as you can.

Right now, I own a steel door, but that’s just against the first wave of chaos. After that passes, I will leave the city to rejoin a larger group of people, my friends and family.

There were some situations during the war. There’s no need for details, but we always had superior firepower and a brick wall on our side.

We also constantly kept someone watching the streets. Quality organization is paramount in case of gang attacks.

Shooting was constantly heard in the city.

Our perimeter was defended primitively. All the exits were barricaded and had little firing slits. Inside we had at least five family members ready for battle at any time and one man in the street, hidden in a shelter.

We stayed home through the day to avoid sniper fire.

At first, the weak perish. Then, the rest fight.

During the day, the streets were practically empty due to sniper fire. Defenses were oriented toward short-range combat alone. Many died if they went out to gather information, for example. It’s important to remember we had no information, no radio, no TV — only rumors and nothing else.

There was no organized army; every man fought. We had no choice. Everybody was armed, ready to defend themselves.

You should not wear quality items in the city; someone will murder you and take them. Don’t even carry a “pretty” long arm, it will attract attention.

Let me tell you something: If SHTF starts tomorrow, I’ll be humble. I’ll look like everyone else. Desperate, fearful. Maybe I’ll even shout and cry a little bit.

Pretty clothing is excluded altogether. I will not go out in my new tactical outfit to shout: “I have come! You’re doomed, bad guys!” No, I’ll stay aside, well-armed, well-prepared, waiting and evaluating my possibilities, with my best friend or brother.

Super-defenses, super-guns are meaningless. If people think they should steal your things, that you’re profitable, they will. It’s only a question of time and the amount of guns and hands.
 
 
How was the situation with toilets?

We used shovels and a patch of earth near the house. Does it seem dirty? It was. We washed with rainwater or in the river, but most of the time the latter was too dangerous. We had no toilet paper; and if we had any, I would have traded it away.

It was a “dirty” business.

Let me give you a piece of advice: You need guns and ammo first — and second, everything else. Literally everything! All depends on the space and money you have.

If you forget something, there will always be someone to trade with for it. But if you forget weapons and ammo, there will be no access to trading for you.

I don’t think big families are extra mouths. Big families means both more guns and strength — and from there, everyone prepares on his own.
 
 
How did people treat the sick and the injured?

Most injuries were from gunfire. Without a specialist and without equipment, if an injured man found a doctor somewhere, he had about a 30 percent chance of survival.

It ain’t the movie. People died. Many died from infections of superficial wounds. I had antibiotics for three to four uses — for the family, of course.

People died foolishly quite often. Simple diarrhea will kill you in a few days without medicine, with limited amounts of water.

There were many skin diseases and food poisonings… nothing to it.

Many used local plants and pure alcohol — enough for the short-term, but useless in the long term.

Hygiene is very important, as well as having as much medicine as possible — especially antibiotics.
 
 
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What to do When a Disaster Strikes Away from Home

Today we have a guest post from Lee Flynn.

 

What to do When a Disaster Strikes Away from Home

Since 9/11, government agencies have been advising us on just how important it is to be prepared for any kind of emergency. And because the risk of terrorism has increased in recent years, as well as the frequency of natural disasters, and the promise economic decline, there is a better chance than ever before of each of us experiencing at least some kind of disaster sometime in the next few years. As a result, many people have taken to keeping emergency supplies such as food, water, and medicine in their homes. But what happens if a disaster strikes when you are not at home? Here are some tips for whatever situation you might find yourself in.

 

General Advice

When disaster strikes, all you want to do is stay safe in your home. But that does not mean that it is necessarily the safest place to be. Create a plan for your family that includes a meeting point. Make sure that such a place will be safe and open, and suitable to protect you from any disaster. If you don’t know where to start, the Federal Emergency Management Agency has created a pdf emergency plan that you can download and fill in. It is available from their website.

 

While on Vacation

The good thing, if there are any positives in such a situation, is that while you are on vacation, you are often in possession of many of your most important documents. For things such as birth certificates, insurance details, and other important information, it can be a good idea to store them somewhere other than your home. Your car or a neighbor’s house can be good alternatives. If the disaster is one that is affecting your home, be thankful that you happened to be away when it struck. Bring some extra money in case you need to extend your stay in wherever you are. If the disaster is happening wherever you are on vacation, bring extra money in case you need to book an immediate flight or other means to travel home.

 

At the Office

Similar instructions also apply to times when disaster might hit when you are at work. If you drive to work, make sure that your car always has at least a quarter tank of gas in it, in case a quick getaway is needed. Keep a few essential supplies in your car, such as food (something that will last, won’t melt, and does not need cooking), water, first aid supplies, and a few blankets, in case you need to sleep in your car for a night. It might be worth getting an office survival kit, especially if you are the manager of a group of employees. If you are the person responsible, you can purchase ready made survival kits that are good for two, four, or even 10 people.

 

At School

Schools often have strict procedures in place for most emergency situations, so if you are a student or employee at a school, you may be in the best position to deal with an emergency. If you are a teacher or in a leadership role, you might consider getting school survival kits for your classrooms. You can also buy these ready made for 30 people.

Lee Flynn is an authority on emergency preparedness, food storage, survival kits, survivalism, and sustainability.

 

Home Security Inside and Out

Let’s face it, most homes are not built with security in mind and are relatively easy to get into. But that doesn’t mean they need to stay that way! In this article, I’ll give you some tips on making your home look like a harder target, actually make it harder to breach and give some general things to keep in mind about security.

 

Things to Keep in Mind

My local police captain said that most theft is drug related; people either breaking in looking for drugs, prescription or otherwise, or people breaking in to steal things they can trade or sell to get drugs. He also said that most of the crime in my city comes from Minneapolis, which is twenty miles away. I think those two things hold true in any area. Most theft is probably drug related and most criminals don’t steal from the area they live. They travel to another neighborhood or city.

Why is this important? It means that often times the criminals would have to “case” a residence to see if it is worth breaking into. The term “curb appeal” usually means how aesthetically pleasing your home is from the curb. One often wants curb appeal when they’re selling their home.

But does your home have curb appeal to Joe Dirtbag and his criminal friends? Are there any expensive items in view from the street that might advertise other valuable items that might be inside? In my neighborhood, it’s not uncommon for people to leave their garage door open until they lock up for the night. Anyone passing by can get a good idea of where they may want to come back to later. They might not want the items in the garage, but if you have expensive tools or other items, that can be a sign that other valuables are inside.

One thing I recommend is to walk around the outside of your home and look for ways that Joe Dirtbag may try to gain access. Do you have any tall shrubs near windows or doors that could give Joe Dirtbag a place to hide while he tries to gain access to your home?

Have you heard this one? “Two friends were hiking and came upon a mother bear and her cub. The bear gave chase and the two friends began running. One friend said to another, there is no way we can outrun this bear. The other friend responded with, “I don’t have to out run the bear, I just have to out run you”.

Many times the same theory applies; you don’t need to be able to make your home impenetrable, you just need to make it look like a harder target than your neighbors.

All of that being said, if someone wants to get into your house, you’re not going to keep them out. The items I’ll cover have two purposes; to make your home a harder target and to slow down Joe Dirtbag once he does gain access to your home.

Some things to keep in mind about Joe Dirtbag and his friends are that, in general, they are lazy and not sophisticated. Yes there are some criminals who might use lock picks, subvert alarm systems and use devices that disarm cell phones. But for the most part, the criminals that break into the average homes use brute force and go for easy pickings.

There are two types of security that will be covered; active and passive. “Active” means that it is something you will have to do, like locking a door or putting a door brace in place. “Passive” is something that you just have to install once. This would be something like putting longer screws in a door jamb.

Security systems are a good option if they fit your lifestyle and the monthly payments are not prohibitive. The following are things you can do on top of or instead of a security system.
 

Home Exterior

I covered a bit of this above. None of these, by themselves, will deter someone, but if you have multiple things to make possible detection too risky, they may go elsewhere. Do you have bushes or hedges that could conceal someone trying to gain access to a door or window? Do you have a tree that could be climbed to give access to a second story window? Motion sensor lights are a great item to have. They only light up once something has passed in front of the sensor. One option is to use thorny bushes such as Pyracantha and Barberry in front of windows.

Home alarms are a great option and having a sign in your yard that advertises the alarm is a good idea as well. It, by itself, won’t stop anyone but adds one more item to the list of reasons why your house might not be the best choice is the objective. If you don’t have an alarm system, you can buy alarm company signs on eBay and Amazon.
 

Home Interior

The goal for this section is to make it take as long as possible for Joe Dirtbag to get through the front door to you and your family. As with the exterior, the interior of most homes is not set up with security in mind. It is set up for the ease of use and comfort of the family. However, having a way to lock a teenager in their room until they’re 30 does sound appealing. But I digress; the average home has a front door or windows that a criminal can gain access from, and a bedroom door that is often hollow core with a simplistic lock. If we can add another layer or two of security, we can add to the length of time it takes Mr. Dirtbag to get to the family, giving us more time to gather the family, arm ourselves and call police.

I think everyone should have a room in their house they consider a “safe room”. I don’t mean a room that is commercially fortified and has its own air filtration system. I mean a room that you might reinforce, that is the “go to” spot if there is an intruder. If you have children, you might choose one of their rooms. If you have multiple small children, you might first go to the smallest child’s room and carry them to the largest child’s room and make that the safe room.
 
Doors

This info applies to both exterior and interior doors. If you chose to make one of the rooms in your home a safe room, doing the following things to the door of that room will greatly increase the time it takes to get to you. Before I go further, let me give a brief description of the parts of a doorway. The door frame is the opening in the wall, reinforced by studs. The door jamb is what is attached to the door frame, which the door is then mounted to via the hinges. It is possible to reinforce many parts of the door so I’ll cover them individually.
 

The door

There are usually county or city codes on the exterior door, so I’ll not cover that. I do recommend that the interior door of the safe room be solid and not a hollow core door. A door that has three hinges is preferable over a door that has only two hinges.
 
Door Jamb and Hinges

While expensive, it is possible to replace a wooden door jamb with a metal one. Most of the time, the screws that are used to attach the door jamb through the hinges to the door frame are 1”-2” long, which is not long enough to go into the studs of the door frame. Replacing them with 3” screws will allow the screw to go into the door frame. This is beneficial as the impact from a kick is then displaced over the door frame as well. Now, instead of a kick only needing to tear the screw out of the door jamb, it is needing to break through the stud as well.
 
Striker Plate

The striker plate usually is only two inches or so and attaches with two screws. It is possible to get one that is 4”, the full length of the door, and attaches with multiple screws. Replacing the short screws with 3” screws that will go into the door frame is also a good idea. Adding a longer strike plate that has more screws will displace a kick over a greater area, making it harder to kick the door in.
 
Locks

Most exterior doors have a deadbolt and a lock on the handle. Here is a video that shows how you can reinforce the deadbolt with a metal pipe. Most bedroom doors have flimsy locks on the handles, if any lock is there at all. Replacing it with a lock that cannot be picked with a paper clip is one option. Adding a deadbolt that is reinforced with a pipe is another.
 
Door Braces

There are several types of door braces, all of which are active security, so you’ll need to put them in place for them to work. Some will mount on the floor. If you have carpet or wood, this might be an option. If you have tile or would rather not have something mounted to the floor, there are braces that slide under the door knob and have a pole that extends to the floor. I’m not endorsing the following products, as I have never used them but I wanted to show a visual example. On a side note, these two types of door braces make lock picks useless.

Here is a video of a floor based system called Nightlock. It shows two men, each trying to kick in a door, one with Nightlock and one without. In the video, the gentleman trying to kick in the door never gets through. In fact, the door jamb begins to separate from the doorframe before he gets in. Now I don’t know if they did anything else to make that door more secure, but if not, this is pretty impressive.
 

 
Here is a video on a door brace that slides under the door knob. I tried to find a video of this type being tested but couldn’t find one. This type can also double as a sliding glass door stop and can be taken with you to be used when travelling. If you don’t want to mount the floor based systems, this might be the best option. I like the idea of this for the safe room. It could be next to the door, waiting to be used.
 

 

Windows

Windows are a bit trickier to protect but there are still a couple options. The first is the more expensive option, which is a film you can place over the window to make it more resistant to breaking. While I am sure there are more companies that sell this type of film, here are three 3M, Solar Guard and Burglar Guard. The only one that listed prices that I could find was Burglar Guard. Their price was $319 for a 36in by 25ft piece of film. As you can see in the video below, this stuff works.
 

 
Another, less expensive, option is window alarms. These won’t prevent glass breakage but it will alert two different ways; on vibration or if a magnetic contact is broken. They range in price from $7.00-$15.00 per alarm or you can buy a full window alarm system for under $200 on Amazon.com
 

Final Thoughts

Doing many of the above mentioned things can add precious seconds to the time it takes you to respond and act on your plan. Having a firearm and phone in your safe room is also a good idea but know how to use both! Wait for the dispatcher to tell you the scene is clear, not the “officer” on the other side of the door!

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Preparedness Lesson from the Bible on Anonymity

give in secret
Image taken from Van Allsblog

Mathew 6 1-4 NIV

“Be careful not to practice your righteousness in front of others to be seen by them. If you do, you will have no reward from your Father in heaven. So when you give to the needy, do not announce it with trumpets, as the hypocrites do in the synagogues and on the streets, to be honored by others. Truly I tell you, they have received their reward in full.

 But when you give to the needy, do not let your left hand know what your right hand is doing, so that your giving may be in secret. Then your Father, who sees what is done in secret, will reward you.”

 

Granted, I think Jesus was trying to teach that when we give, we should do so quietly and not draw attention to it.  I think this is great advice every prepper should heed.  There are two points that I take away from those verses that I think relate to preparedness; “being gray” and “pat on the back”.

 

Being Gray

I have covered “being gray” in previous articles, so I’ll just touch on it now.  Being gray or maintaining OP-SEC (operational Security) is part keeping a low profile, part not letting others know what you have and part doing what is expected of you, so as not to raise undo attention.

Many people feel a need to share their preparations with those less fortunate.  That is their right.  I will side with the King and say “do so in private”, but probably for different reasons than He gave.  If you share either openly, not hiding it from anyone, or openly with the people you choose to assist, too many people know that you have preparations to share.

One thought I have is to share secretly, leaving care packages late at night on the doorsteps of people who are in need.  This way they get some assistance and OP-SEC is maintained.

 

Pat on the Back

Many of us like to do good things for others.  Let’s face it, being able to help someone in need and receiving their thanks feels good.  At Christmas time, I always make sure to have change on me so I can put some in every Salvation Army kettle I pass by.  I do this for a few reasons; one is that I know this is the time of year they make most of their operating money and I also do it so the bell ringer feels like their time is well spent.  If I’m truly honest, I also do it because it feels good to have the bell ringer acknowledge my putting something in the kettle, though I still donate if they’re on a break. 

My point is that if you feel like you must give publicly to others “when it hits the fan”, do some soul searching and find out why you’re giving.  Is it out of Christian obligation?  Is it just easier to give face to face?  Is it because seeing the joy on their face makes you feel good?

We can eliminate any potential sin issues and keep our OP-SEC by giving privately.  Our Father who sees what is done in secret will reward us.

 

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Christianity and the Bible’s Case for Self-Defense

Today we have a guest post, an author published by Prepper Press named John Elliot.  John writes about Christianity and self-defense.  This is a subject I covered a couple years ago, please see the comment section for my thoughts on John’s article, and on the subject in general.

 

Christianity and the Bible’s Case for Self-Defense

As the author of books having to do with self-preservation and, far more importantly, as a Christian, I have had to answer some rather deeply personal questions that require a considerable level of introspection. At the forefront of those questions is the one that asks, “What does God say about Believers protecting themselves from criminals, terrorists, or anyone else who may wish to harm us?”

Since my last book came out, Don’t Be A Victim!, I have been asked that question no less than six times. Well, part of the answer can be found in various books of the Bible. Was Moses condemned by God for going to the defense of a fellow Israelite and killing an Egyptian? The answer is no. In the book of Acts, chapter 7:24, it clearly demonstrates that the act of killing that Egyptian who was mistreating an Israelite was in fact part of Moses’ acceptance by the Israelites.

Nowhere in the Bible does it show that Christians are to be the doormats for the evil people of the world; but are we as Christians called upon to turn the other cheek? Well, yes. Matthew 5:39 instructs us about just that thing. There is even a time when Believers in Christ may have to suffer and die. We can read about that in Matthew5:11, Philippians 1:29, 2 Timothy 2:3, and in some other passages found in the Bible. All of that is true; there is no argument here at all.

What is also true is the Christian doctrine of self-defense and preservation, of preparedness and good common sense. The Apostle Paul implied that Christian men ought to defend their families. In 1 Timothy 5:8, after speaking about how the law applies to criminals and other violators of the trust God gives to men and women, it reads, “But those who won’t care for their relatives; especially those in their own household, have denied the true faith. Such people are worse than unbelievers.” We are told by those words, and so many other passages, that we as Christians have a right, a duty and an obligation to protect the innocent amongst us.

If you are lying in bed at night and you waken by the sound of breaking glass, what do you do? You dial 911 right away, but what happens if an intruder is then heard climbing the stairs to where your wife and children are sleeping? The police may be on their way, but they are still several minutes away. You are a Christian, you are told to love your enemy, but you also know that the burglar in your home is probably capable of unspeakable violence. What now? If you are like me, you reach for that Sig Sauer semi-automatic pistol, and before the burglar makes it to the top of the stairs, you send him off to meet his Maker.

We live in a violence-prone world, gone mad with horrible crime each day, with horrific acts of terrorism across the globe, with the knowledge that eventually we may all have to face our worst fears in life. Being a born-again Believer in Christ helps to relieve so much of that fear and anxiety, but being prepared for the unexpected is what God expects from each of us.

John Elliott is the author of Don’t Be A Victim!: An Officer’s Advice on Preventing Crime, published by Prepper Press. He is a law enforcement veteran who worked for police agencies in Virginia, Rhode Island and Florida, as well as for the U.S. Department of Justice and the U.S. Customs Service. He also spent many years working with Interpol, and was a bomb disposal technician conducting land mine and unexploded military ordnance disposal in the Middle East, Eastern Europe, Asia and North Africa.
 
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Memorial Day Prayer

This is a repost from last year, I didn’t think I could say it any better.

On this Memorial Day, I am thankful for the sacrifice so many throughout our history have made, for the men and women who made the ultimate sacrifice and for their families who had to carry on without them.

It is a sacrifice that is easy to forget. For those who have it, freedom is like oxygen. It’s something we just have. Many will not understand just how precious either is until they are at risk of being taken away. There are encroachments being made on our freedoms right now by those who think they know better. This is a conversation for another time.

Today I remember a sacrifice made and a debt I cannot repay. Today I pray for the God of heaven to bless the families of those who have lost loved ones while serving our great nation. I pray for Him to bless and comfort the walking wounded who are still with us, and bless their families as well.

It is also my prayer that we remember their sacrifice and the precious gift of freedom every day, not just once a year or when they are in danger of being taken away.

Consolidated List of Gardening Posts

It’s that time of year when many of us are gardening by traditional, raised bed, square foot, container or other method. I’ve written a few articles over the years that might be new to some of you. I thought I would write one condensed post and link to them all.

For those of you who aren’t gardeners, this is a skill you should really consider learning. Have you ever heard the phrase, “society is nine meals away from anarchy”? It’s true! It only takes three hunger filled days for things to begin to fall apart. The easiest way to control a people, is to control their food supply. Throughout history, tyrants have controlled their people by limiting the food supply.

Victory gardens were a common thing during WWII. People raised some of their own food to help reduce the burden on the food supply brought on because of the war.

I have been at this a few years and still consider myself a novice, but I am happy to share with you what I have learned.

“Principles of Gardening” is a great place to start. This article covers some of the basics, but I also cover some things that people who’ve had a traditional garden all their lives might not know. For instance, did you know that tilling your garden plot is counterproductive and actually harmful to the soil?

Over the years I have collected several books on gardening. I shared them in (-“Gardening Resources” and have updated the list with three new books.

Few of us have perfect soil for gardening. “Soil Amendments to Improve Garden Growth” has multiple ways to improve soil.

One way to make the most of limited space it to use a trellis for plants that grow on a vine. We’ve come up with a PVC Trellis for melons and beans.

In “Natural Ways to Kill Bugs and Weeds”, I list several ways to kill bugs and weeds without using pesticides or herbicides.

In “Introduction to Permaculture; Building a Food Forest”, I explain the basics of permaculture, which is a design system that uses principles found in nature. Instead of a traditional farm that may produce one or two items, a permaculture design might have a hundred different items. Permaculture design is often referred to as a “food forest”.

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